Recent content by FirebrandX

I have a HAS 4.0 2019. I heard something about a 4.1 version coming out. Can anyone tell me what the new features are? Also I'm considering getting a Green Beret (Rush'n Attack) PCB, but from what I understand, it doesn't use JAMMA. Is there a recommended Jamma adapter I should use? Much...

I see that rolling interference in your picture in all the videos. Your console may need a recap (particularly the big power cap near the on-off switch). Edit: Seems the rolling dot crawl up the screen is composite video issue related. If you're using RGB and want to get rid of it, this fix...

Don't be confused. Darksoft is wrong about the polarity. AES consoles use center-negative DC current. That's a FACT. I even wrote a guide on how to tell exactly what you need based on the motherboard itself: AES PSU Guide

For AES consoles, I link to center-negative Triads, which is correct. I in fact coded a repository web page that includes the spec of the original OEM supplies here: Triad Power Supply Guide For Vintage Consoles Additionally, I've been using the Triad just fine on my AES with original carts...

So you're saying it was working back then with those carts, but not now? If so, you're down to needing to do multimeter tests of each trace to cart lead.

The only way to know for sure now is to buy the cheapest working original AES cart you can find on ebay.

Yes I figured that out myself once I realized he was using a Unibios.That's why I had him remove it to check for a blue screen with the stock bios chip.

Okay so blue screen is good. Now for cleaning the cart port pins, my trick is to take a credit card and insert it into some thin T-shirt fabric, then wet that end with rubbing alcohol (preferably above 90%). Then insert the wet T-shirt card end into the cart port pins up and down to scrub them...

Okay thanks. Looks like they did an okay job on that encoder bypass. So the next step is to pull that Unibios out of the socket and put the original back in. Then do another power on with no cart inserted. If you get a blue screen doing that, then we know it's more likely the cart interface to...

Okay if you're getting white screen with no cart, that's not good. At any rate, the area I'm referring to is the upper left of the board where you plug in the RGB cable. Unscrew the board from the bottom shell, flip the board over and take a photo of that area. You should see some bodge wires...

To be fair, the heat wasn't coming so much from the PSU, bu rather the CPU. The metal shroud was burning hot to the touch, that's why I cut a circular hole in the shroud and added a laptop fan.

Okay so a couple things: 1. You have an internally regulated power circuit, so you'll want to use a 9V 2A PSU at a minimum (I list 9V 2.5A in my guide from Triad). 2. Your encoder output caps are missing, which indicates a DAC ladder RGB bypass. I'd inspect the underside of the board up there...

I have GDEMU + DCHDMI, and yeah, heat was a serious issue even after I removed the 12V regulator. So I went the full 9 and got a DreamPSU and cut an exhaust hole in the metal shroud for a laptop fan to vent the heat out the back. Stays super cool now: Fully modded Dreamcast

I actually quite like my DreamPSU. Easy install, less heat. To me, moving the heat-generating parts to a wall wart is preferable. I can understand that may not be the case for others, but it works fine for me.

@ Noob, I saw you mention a blue screen and now a white screen. I need you to do a couple things for me: 1. Open up the console (there are 4 Phillips screws with 3 of them hiding under the rubber pads) and take a photo of the board inside the console. We can use that photo to make sure you...