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+1 for @yagamikun Bought a PCB from him. Good packing, good shipping, great seller all around! Thanks buddy

Preferable to recap both IMO but if you just want to get rid of the smell you could clean down the boards and just replace the smelliest caps. Might be hard to determine which ones those are exactly though.

If it was working before the recap then its certainly something wrong with the recap job. It's pretty easy to lift pads on these chassis, try pushing down lightly on each cap while checking solder side, I had one that would push itself out with the pad. +1 for check orientation and also any...

Is the smell like fish? If so, could be coming from the caps, presumably from the chassis or PSU.

The NAC (unsure about Astro) has a grounding point on the back of the cab where the power cable comes from. If you haven't already swapped it for a 3 prong cable, you would use it with the grounding point as shown on the product you linked. Whether all of this is necessary or useful remains to...

Just ordered one!

*Edited for correction: Yes the 7A, astro PSUs don't work with CAVE PCBs. Since this one is 12A, it should work. Never seen this model of PSU, GLWS

x1 silver for me please!

I would unseat and reseat all the socketed EPROMs, clean them and possibly reburn the one containing background graphics then. Also ensure the kit pins are cleaned and reinserted as well.

Errors in the background sprite layer. Was the PCB working before you installed the kit? Hopefully so and you just physically damaged a trace and can track it down.

+1 for @msamiullah. Perfect transaction and nice guy, thanks buddy

Nice. This happened on my R-Type Leo so I jammed some tape on top of the pins so it doesn't want to slip off again in the future and get lost.

Does anyone know the size of the GD-Rom fan? Is it the same form factor and voltage as the Naomi case fan? Edit: Confirmed its 60x60x15mm 12v. Same as Naomi mainboard case fan.

Does the negative leg of the supercap have good continuity to any ground point (with very low resistance) on the PCB? You can tie in multiple points to shared ground without worry. The fact that it takes a while to work before heating up sounds like its dodgy or it could also be another cap gone...

I did this process to my Undercover Cops, you have to replace all the socketed ROMs on the bottom board. There's 13 or so of them.

Since it was working before the recap, it's highly likely something that went wrong during that process. Make 100% sure that all the cap orientations are correct. I found it easy to lift pads when I recapped my MS9s, it looks soldered in but when I gently push down on a cap, one of the legs...

In the schematic the negative leg is going to ground, which is common for cap legs. You can try jumping it to any other ground point.

Is anyone selling these or an equivalent for us 3D printer-less? Edit: @msamiullah hooked me up!

Removing the grounding point near the PCB door on the height adustment leg removed *most* of the interference (the one that has the wire looping into field ground into the PSU), but there's still vertical waves coming from the magnetic(?) ballast at the top of the cabinet. Even after I unplugged...

I've determined that the ballast marquee light in my NAC is generating monitor interference. If it's unplugged the noise is completely gone. Would re-routing the AC wires fix this, or could the ballast be shielded somehow? I'd prefer to keep this original but if it has to be replaced by an LED...