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Ah! I am one of  those people! I forgot to post after fixing the problem! I was able to get the board running after disassembling the three boards, cleaning the contacts between boards, and reassembling. Seems a dirty header was the culprit.

Well, in case anyone finds this thread some day with a similar issue, I got it working! My best guess as to what happened: D410 shorted and took IC201 and R901 with it. I replaced IC201 before discovering D410 was faulty, and likely burned it up too. After replacing D410 and R901, replacing...

Ok! Back on track, sort of. D410 was shorted and everything near it was getting a free ride to ground. I think that's what was killing R901. Diode replaced, no more burning, but back to vertical collapse. Repair list so far: A e-caps replaced, checked polarization, checked positives for ground...

Ohh, I don't have a reader, but I do have a SC2 memory card. I'd like to help get these figured out. Would you like to borrow one to dump? Or is that not helpful?

Yeah, that's what I'm going by, except I later found a list of parts changes from the base model to the 33" model. Lo and behold, R903 was intentionally changed and all of this may have been avoidable. Anyway, so hunt for a ground short? Starting from R901 and going away from the flyback, or...

Someone told me the procedure to isolate pin 14 and check its voltage. 29v, which I think is correct for the 33" model. With L602 removed and J8 disconnected, I was able to do a light bulb test. R901 didn't burst in to flames while the light bulb was on, as it does when the connections are...

Still working on this chassis. Further diagnostics reveal: pin 7 from the flyback leads to R901, and is reading 3.7v. Supposed to be 12v. Still burning up. Pin 8 I think is the input side, reads 120v. But I think B+ voltage is supposed to be 133v. Every component in the area seems to read within...

Also chiming in with positive feedback . Had three Namco PCB games shipped from Spain to the US. They arrived in a reasonable time with good packing. All three worked and were playable. Would recommend and do business again! (Conversion to Euros is a pain, tho)

No, guess I'll add that to my growing list. Was hoping it was a simpler/well known bug. Thanks, I'll see if there is something in there maybe triggering that module somehow.

Well, now they're all replaced. Side adventure: I was following a troubleshooting guide for a similar Sharp image chassis where R903 was listed as 15ohm 2w. I accidentally replaced my R903 with that, instead of the 1.5ohm 2w it called for. Realized my mistake after turning it on and finding it...

Just got a TTT pcb, installed it in a cab previously running Soul Calibur. Figured the buttons wouldn't be right, but just wanted to fire it up and see what we're working with. Unfortunately it's just running through the JVS tests over and over and never moving past that. It's currently hooked...

Not all of them, but I have ordered them now that the initial troubleshooting has been fruitless. I haven't checked anything while it was running. I'm not sure how to safely do that.

Working on a Sharp Image SI-134/ KTM-F33 Chassis with vertical collapse and am at my limit. Repair log thus far: Following the schematic, in order from the point that sync enters - R524 1 ohm in circuit (10k ohm out of circuit which is what it's listed as, seems ok. No idea what it should read...

Anyone know where to buy a replacement flyback for a WG D9400? After recapping, checking for unintended shorts on ICs and transistors, replacing fuses, continiuity testing windings, etc. my D9400 is still not sending any high voltage. Figured a new flyback is the next logical repair, but I...

Okie dokie, no modification needed? Got a link?

I'm looking for a source for the 48 pin edge connector. The ones I'm finding on Mouser and Digikey etc. with compatible specs seem not to be stocked anymore. As far as I can tell, it was originally manufactured by Hirose but I've found some compatible (I think) connectors made by EDAC and...

I'm not sure my cheapo multimeter can test inductance directly, but the numbers I'm getting when testing the coils for continuity are H: 0.4ohm V: 5.3ohm Guess I need a better multimeter before moving forward?

I haven't tested my own yoke, but from another user here with the same tube the readings were: LhLvRhRv 0.29 mH7.82 mH0.6 ohm5.9 ohm I don't know how different they are from one set to the next, so if that's not sufficient I'll have to test in the morning.

I've got this tube, an LG Philips A68QCU770XV6L. It had no neck board or chassis when I received it. Looking up the cabinet in its original form it seems it had a WG D9400 and neck is listed as B10-277. Are these hard to come by? I don't see any for sale here or on eBay. Are there other...

Hey folks, I just got a Die Hard machine in the big honkin' Sega cab. It has a pretty gnarly gash on the front panel that is bowing outward. When I opened up the cab there's nothing there that I can see that would have heated or caused pressure on the structure. Not sure how it happened...