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Kortek KTM-F 14" tube swap

dysfunctional

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Sep 28, 2023
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Stockholm, Sweden
Ok, so, I'm a proud owner of a Kortek KTM-F chassis, paired with a 14" Samsung A34KQV42X02 tube (with a horrible burn in unfortunately).

Chassis is in great condition, actually. From what I have gathered, these chassis were commonly used in Europe (more often in "fruit" games / casino games than actual arcade games), they accept 110 - 240v and do not need an isolation transformer. So far so good.

It took me years to find the manual for my exact model, but it eventually turned up on archive.org. Which is currently down. But if anyone needs the manual / schematics, here it is :

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ikPEY9S6-LEo6Hx50m6OCEd4LCTDcQZF/view?usp=sharing

Ok, so let's move on to my actual issue :D.

I'd like to replace the tube, and I already pulled a fully working Chunghwa (370KRB22-TC38) tube out of an old Telefunken TV-set. They look almost identical and it fits the frame perfectly.

I currently don't have access to an inductance meter, but I did measure the resistance. I have a cheap meter ($30 or so), so the accuracy probably isn't spot on.

Samsung A34KQV42X02 : VR 15,2, HR 1,8
Chunghwa 370KRB22-TC38 : VR 14,5, HR 3,1

According to tubular, it's a swap candidate.

My options are the following :

1. Just try it without swapping the yokes. But will this risk damaging my perfectly working chassis, or not?
2. Wait a few weeks for my inducate meter to arrive, and take it from there.
3. Come to the conclusion that regardless of the above, it's best to swap the yokes (but keep the rings), and pray to god that I will figure out the convergence and all that without ever done it before (youtube would be my guide :D)

I'm attaching the labels of the both tubes. I'd attach the chassis manual too, but unfortunately the file size is too large.

Would be truly grateful if someone with experience would take the time to guide me further here!

Million thanks in advance

Peter
 

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